When people hear the term "Low Light shooting" What they most often
think of is shooting in the dark. And most people don't have the
ability to train in low light or reduced light or dark conditions. So
this is a skill that is not practiced in my opinion as much as it
should be. However this is a skill that can be practiced along with
your daily "Dry Fire Training" or with a "Blue Gun" and a Flashlight
you can practice clearing your own home.
In the FBI's (UCR) uniform Crime Report it tells us that 80% of all Law
Enforcement shooting happen in low or reduced light. So as a Concealed
Carry permit holder, do you carry a flashlight? Even if it is not dark
outside could you be in an area of low or reduced light? EXAMPLES:
Parking Garage, Stairwell, Hallway, Alleyway, closets, tunnels, etc.
This report transfers to "citizen" CHP shootings as well. Perpetrators
of street crimes are more active after sundown. So if you do carry a
flashlight do you know how to use it?
"The fear of the dark works both ways; you will be better prepared if you train in low and reduced light."
The first step is having the tools. You need a flashlight, but which
one? Surefire, Mag Light, Min Mag, Asp Tactical Led, etc. Before you
decide you need to know this:
What is the purpose of the Tactical Flashlight?
1. As an aid in low light navigation and movement.
2. Locate and identify and assess threats and innocents.
3. As a non lethal tool for controlling suspects and subjects.
The biggest question I get asked about flashlights is:
What is the difference between candlepower and lumens?
Lumens is what is used to specify the total amount of light coming from
any light producing device, and candlepower refers to the highest value
of the light intensity to be found anywhere in the lights "beam".
Lumens tell you how "powerful" the light-producing device is, be it a
light bulb of any type, a flashlight, or a car headlight. Candlepower
tells you how tightly focused the beam is, assuming the light source
has a lens or reflector to focus the light into a beam.
Lumens can be measured quite accurately, using an instrument called an
integrating sphere, and identical lights would all have similar lumen
values. It is an important quantity to know when comparing different
lighting products, as it tells you how much light each one produces.
Candlepower can also be measured accurately, using a light intensity
meter to measure luminous intensity, and then by applying the
appropriate formula, which takes into account how far, the meter is
from the light source. The problem is that he value measured depends on
where in the beam you take the measurement (the highest value found is
what is normally used), and on how well the beam is focused. It is not
unusual for candlepower values to vary greatly from unit to unit on
otherwise identical lights due to small differences in focusing or
reflector tolerances.
Ken Good from Strategos, Intl. www.strategosinternational.com put it this way:
Lumens verses Candlepower
"Lumen - Measurement of a quantity of light as perceived by the human
eye. As a light source's color temperature increases, less light is
required to achieve comparable brightness and visual acuity. The international unit to describe the quantity of light (also called luminous flux). - That's why SureFire uses this as a standard benchmark for all of our illumination tools.
Candle Power (Candelas) Used by lighting designers to calculate the
foot-candles illuminating a surface (C.P./distance in feet squared) or
Lux illuminating a surface (C.P./distance in meters squared)
Foot-candles -Measurement of light output in candela per square foot.
It derives from the early English unit of foot-candle defined as the
illuminance on a surface placed one foot from the standard candle. 100
foot-candles is generally considered enough light to perform most
tasks. Lux - Measurement of light output in candelas per square meter.
One lumen per square. 10 lux is generally considered enough light to
perform most tasks.
These terms are useful to assist in determining the "signature" of the
illumination tool you are speaking about. No one term will fully
describe the overall usefulness or quality of the emission. For
instance, you can have a light with a tremendous candlepower rating at
one point in the pattern, but the rest of the pattern in not useful.
I.E. dark spots, splotchy, and/or weak."
The standard in the industry and the light used at Perroni's Tactical
Training Academy is the Surefire G2. For about $30.00 you have a solid
flashlight with about 65 lumens. And for an additional $25.00 you can
step up to 125 lumens using the P61 bulb from Surefire.
The next question I get asked is what about night sights? Or what kind
do you use. In my opinion night sight are good in reduced light
situations because they give you a visual reference of the front and
rear sight and this can be helpful I teach my students not to shoot
until they have identified the target. For this in a reduced light
situation you need a flashlight, otherwise you are just shooting off
into the dark. My (2) key night sigh points:
1. Excellent tool to locate the main aiming point of your handgun.
2. The sight is not the total answer to the problem; you must see and identify the threat first.
Remember: Night Sights assist you in aiming! However they do not assist you in:
-Identifying targets
-Navigating
-Searching
The flashlight is also useful for searching for subjects, as well as
blinding them with light to shut down the OODA loop. As well as we said
earlier target identification.
However there are (3) things one must learn before the refinement of techniques and tactics. They are;
1. Reduce Telegraphing.
2. Be acutely aware of being in or creating a Backlit condition for you or your team.
3. Avoid blinding yourself or others.
Also realize that if you are in a gunfight in low or reduced light and
you are using a flashlight that if the Bad Guy is armed and committed,
they will fire directly into the source of light.
At that point you must distort your opponents perception of what is
actually happening and where you are actual located. This is done by
using the following:
1. Displacement
2. Angel of the Beam
3. Rhythm and duration
The reason this is so important is that you need to conceal your
movement from your attacker. You need to train so that you can deploy
both your flashlight and your handgun simultaneously and accurately.
The shooter must be proficient with moving and shooting before they
move on to moving and shooting in low light. Also remember running with
a handgun or handgun and flashlight is bad.
I also stress one handed shooting and training with one hand and yes
also working with the weak hand (Support Hand) as well. Because after
all when you are shooting with a flashlight in your hand you are
shooting one handed.
So with all that information let's talk about Hand Gun Shooting
Techniques in Low or Reduced Light. What follows are some examples of
shooting Techniques that can be employed with a flashlight. However
remember the Tactical Golden Rule what I am sharing with you is "A" way
to do the technique not "THE" way to do the technique. Review what
follows with an open mind try each technique on the range but keep the
one or ones that work best for you.
Rogers Technique: Light is held between the fingers and activated by pressing against palm of hand see picture below.



